STEEL CITY SUDS
By: Vince Ponzio
The smoky city. Blue-collar. A shot and a beer town.
Words that have at one time or another described Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, a
northeastern U.S. city that once prided itself on supplying the world with
steel, especially during times of crisis. Since the steel industry’s demise in
the late 1970s, Pittsburgh has become a city that now prides itself on having
first class hospitals, world class universities, awe inspiring architecture,
and being an epicenter for the high tech industry. Change is something that
is always constant. For Pittsburgh, its status from being a blue-collar smoke
filled metropolis to becoming a center for business, the arts, and the sciences
is an example of such change. The same rule of thumb applies to the Pittsburgh
beer drinking scene.
There once was a time when a local brew called Iron City
ruled the beer roost in Pittsburgh. This beverage has been brewed by the
Pittsburgh Brewing Company since 1861. During its history, Iron City has
quenched many a thirst, from steelworker, to CEO and still does to this day.
But in the later part of the 20th century, Pittsburgh’s beer
drinking populace began to discover a new world of beer beyond the brewery from
the Burgh’s Lawrenceville neighborhood. A world that has made Pittsburgh a
beer drinker’s paradise, with taverns, microbreweries, and brewpubs that offer
a stunning, and an almost staggering variety of gourmet beer selection. Let’s
explore that world. The new world of suds from the steel city!
Our Pittsburgh beer adventure begins on the north side
of town. No we are not going to a game at either PNC Park, or Heinz Field. We
are instead headed to a place where a traditional German style of beer making
has been brought to life by a local brewing pioneer named Tom Pastorius.
Pastorius is the proprietor of the Pennsylvania Brewing Company, the first ever
craft brewer in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. Prior to opening this
brewery, Pastorius actually went to Germany to live, and study their brewing
techniques. He brought back what he learned to Pittsburgh, and the rest is
Western PA brewing history.
The Penn Brewery, as it is called by the locals, was
opened in 1986 in the old Eberhardt and Ober Brewery located on Vinial Street across from the
world headquarters of Heinz Foods. This old rustic building gives the beer
adventurer in all of us the feel of actually being in a German Hofbrau, with a
solid beer menu, excellent German cuisine, and an atmosphere where the brew
tanks are in full view as you dine.
Brewing their lagers under the strict German purity law
(or the Reinheitsgebot), the masters at the Penn Brewery offer a wide variety
of award winning malt pleasure. Their standard year round elixirs include Penn
Gold, a refreshing Munich Helles beer that is medium in body with a delicate
hop aroma. Penn Dark is a well-balanced smooth burnt dark German lager. And
Penn Pilsner is the microbrewery’s signature beverage that uses two-row barley
malt, caramel-roasted malt, and a variety of hops to make it full bodied and
mellow.
Penn Brewery’s seasonal offerings include a German
Maerzen for the Mardi Gras-St. Patrick Day season, a Maibock for the spring, a
Bavarian Weizen for the summer, a hearty Oktoberfest for the fall, and St.
Nikolaus Bock, a strong rich dark red brew for the Christmas season. Kaiser
Pils and Crew Lager round out the Penn Brewery beer menu.
The Penn Brewery is more than just a brewpub. Live
entertainment from German oompha music to reggae and rock takes place on the
weekends in the outdoor Biergarten during the warmer weather months, and
indoors during the chillier times of year.
Annual events at the Penn include a rambunctious
Oktoberfest in late September that would make Munich sit up and take notice,
the St. Nicholas Day Party in December that kicks off the holiday season and
the taping of the St. Nick’s Bock, and the Pennsylvania Microbrewer’s Festival
held in June. The Microbrewer’s Festival is where regional brewers come to show
off their creations and compare notes.
Since it’s opening, the Penn Brewery has experienced
phenomenal growth, and continues to do so today as their beers are available in
distributors and taverns around the region, and at PNC Park and Heinz Field for
sporting events.
As we leave the Penn Brewery, our Pittsburgh beer tour
takes us across the Allegheny River through the Strip District, on to Liberty
Avenue just up the hill from where Iron City is brewed. Welcome to the Church
Brew Works, where dining and drinking in splendor are commonplace. The story
of how the Church Brew Works came into being is fascinating.
In 1903, St. John the
Baptist Roman Catholic Church in the heart of Pittsburgh's Lawrenceville
section opened it's doors to hard working worshiping parishioners of the area.
As the years went by, St. John's saw it's bell tower burn down, and it's
congregation decline. Finally in the early 1990's, the Pittsburgh Catholic
Diocese decided to close the historic church due to the congregation’s
decreased population, thus forcing the remaining parishioners to go elsewhere
for their spiritual healing.
St. John's probably would
have met the wrecking ball had it not been for a few visionaries who decided to
purchase the beleaguered, but beautiful church and convert it to a brewpub and
restaurant. That vision became reality in August of 1996, when the Church Brew
Works opened it's doors giving the dormant building new life as a house no
longer of food for the soul, but of food (and drink) for the body and
disposition.
When you enter this red
brick structure, you will be amazed at the décor. Beautiful stained glass
windows, fully restored wood floors, refurbished pews from the old church used
in the dining area, a high ceiling that is akin to a Roman Catholic house of
worship, and the brew tanks majestically standing in the back of the building
where the alter and sacristy used to be. The bar is located at the left as you
enter. The dining hall is in the middle of the floor where the faithful once
prayed. And an outdoor “Hop Garden” is found at the exit to the right for
pleasant weather dining and imbibing.
There are four main beers
brewed year round at the Church, which are not yet distributed a la the Penn
Brewery’s beers. Celestial Gold is the their version of a golden malty generic
lager beverage. Pipe Organ Pale Ale is a wonderfully smooth, hopped and
perfumey ale brewed in the English tradition using East Kent Golding hops from
the mother country. Pious Monk Dunkel is a hearty dark German lager style brew
that is clean and roasty. And Bell Tower Brown is a rich American style brown
ale with roasted malt notes and a caramel rich body.
The Church Brew Works brews
seasonal beers throughout the year that include a German Hefe Weizen for the
summer, a fine Stout for St. Patrick’s Day, Belgian Tripel beers for the
winter, and Oktoberfest and Pumpkin brews for the fall. Some of these beers are
cask conditioned, as well. When you go to the Church Brew Works, be sure to ask
your bartender or server what's on cask.
The food menu is very hip,
with everything from burgers and wood fired pizza, to chicken wraps, wings and
salads. Weekends are pretty much packed solid at the Church Brew Works for many
a reason. The food, the beer, and the novelty of having one of Pittsburgh's
historic landmark churches converted into a hip gathering place are the top
three. Amen and onward!
So you say brewpubs are not your bag? You want some
variety that includes a host of imports, micros, and standards? Well fellow
beer travelers, we have the answer. This time we cross another of Pittsburgh’s
three rivers (the Monongahela) to the South Side of town to take part in two
truly unique drinking and dining experiences.
Our first stop is to Fathead’s South Shore Saloon,
located on the 1800 block of Carson Street. The first thing you will notice
about Fathead’s is its logo, depicting a facial caricature of a grinning
gentleman of much girth, and not much hair, sporting wayfarer sunglasses, and a
moustache. This is a logo that tells you that Fathead’s is very much a laid
back type of place.
Once you enter, you will notice there is much space to
roam. Back when Fathead’s opened in the early 1990s, it was a cramped hole in
the wall saloon. After undergoing a massive expansion project that took place a
couple of years ago, it is now much more roomy. As a matter of fact, that
roominess also includes an outdoor patio with umbrella- laden tables for the
warm weather months.
Fathead’s bar displays approximately 40 beers on draft
that range from the usual commercialized American suds to the strongest of
Belgian beers. The menu changes from time to time, but micros from all over
the country, including Dogfish Head, Great Lakes, Anchor, Brooklyn Brewery, and
Troegs can usually be found among Fathead’s tap collection.
This South Side establishment also has an array of
various bottled beers, including Sam Smiths Oatmeal Stout, 25 ounce bottles of
Belgian Trappist and abbey brews such as Chimay and Affligem, and numerous
micros crafted by Rogues of Oregon. Incidentally, Rogues makes a special ale
for this Pittsburgh institution called “Rogue Fathead’s Ale” that is quite
good.
The Fathead food menu is abundant. The sandwiches are
massive, the wings range from mild to volcano, and the salads are bountiful.
It’s typical bar food of the highest quality. Fathead’s is truly a fun place
to go to in the Burgh. How can a bar with the motto, “Chill out, man! Have a
beer or something,” not be?
Almost directly across Carson Street from Fathead’s is
our second South Side stop. The Piper’s Pub without question provides the true
taste of beer, food and atmosphere of the British Isles. Piper’s is the
quintessential English-Irish-Scottish pub serving a delightful selection of
beers from that region of the world, as well as Belgian, German, and American
beers.
Like its counterpart across the street, Piper’s has seen
some changes in their brew menu, but for the most part, typical British Isle
beverages remain. Draft ales include Young’s Ram Rod, Fullers ESB, Newcastle
Brown, Beamish Stout, Belhaven, Tennants, Boddingtons, Tetley’s and Guinness.
On tap from the non British Isle countries is Corsendonk Monk Brown, Franziskaner,
Victory Hop Devil, and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, just to name a few.
An impressive bottled beer selection is typical of the
Piper’s Pub. Skull Splitter, Fraoch Heather Ale, Ebulum Elderberry Black Ale,
Chimay, Duvel, Orval, Fuller’s London Pride, and London Porter are included in
this vast list of drinking pleasures. An abundant list of single malt scotches
are also available if you prefer something stronger.
If it’s English and Irish cuisine you crave, Piper’s has
that, too. Delicious Shepard’s Pie, Bangers and Mash, Fish and Chips, and
Guinness Stew will tantalize the taste buds, and help you work up a thirst for
that next pint or shot.
On the weekends, the Piper’s Pub sometimes has live
entertainment of an acoustic nature, and the televisions at the bar from time
to time carry English football and rugby matches via satellite. The Piper’s
Pub is one of Pittsburgh’s best-kept secrets.
Our Pittsburgh beer tour has taken us to at least one
brewing establishment with a German theme to it, and one tavern with a British
Isles-Celtic genre. But if a large assortment of beers from Belgium is what
you desire, the places to go in Pittsburgh are the Sharp Edge Beer Emporium and
the Sharp Edge Creekhouse.
The Sharp Edge Beer Emporium is located in the city’s
east end, and has been voted “Best Belgian Beer Bar in the USA” by the Petit
Fute Guide to Belgian Beers. Heavy emphasis is placed on Belgian drafts at the
Emporium. The usual tap features include beers from the Van Steenberge
brewery, such as the very potent Gulden Draak, Bornem Dubbel and Tripel, Huyghe
Brewery’s Delirium Tremens and Nocturnum, Petrus Old Brown and Tripel, and the
Interbrew mainstays of Leffe, Hoegaarden, and Stella Artois.
Non-Belgian fare is also available from the keg,
including Guinness, and Beamish Irish Stouts, Belhaven, Franziskaner, Allagash,
and Old Speckled Hen. If you are indecisive, you can order a variety of beers
off of the tap as the Sharp Edge offers Belgian, nitro, and import-micro “tasters”
in four small glasses attached to a wooden stand.
An even greater selection of bottled Belgian, and
British Isles beer exists at the Emporium, with some of the British-Irish
drinks available in nitrogenated cans. An excellent selection of bottled
American microbrews and other bottled imports are also on the beer list. They
include Anderson Valley, Ommegang, Weyerbacher, and Stout’s from the USA, as
well as Baltika Porter from Russia, Obolon from the Ukraine, Red Stripe from
Jamaica, and the extremely strong Samiclaus from Austria. This excellent
selection makes the Sharp Edge beer menu beyond complete.
As you might expect, the Sharp Edge Creekhouse beer menu
is pretty much of the same variety as it’s sister tavern across town. Located
on the city’s west end off of the Thornburg Bridge near the suburb of Crafton,
the Creekhouse has more of a homey feel to it than the Beer Emporium. The
Creekhouse actually replicates a quaint old world style house or cottage that
you would find in the middle of Germany or Belgium. A very appropriate setting
for the theme of this popular Belgian beer bar. Unlike the Beer Emporium, the
Creekhouse has an upstairs dining room, and an outdoor deck for nice weather
gatherings.
Both Sharp Edge establishments offer an abundant food
menu that feature a variety of temptations. Along with standard bar fare for
both lunch and dinner, there are gourmet pizzas, Panini sandwiches, and an
occasional Belgian themed menu that is very tasty. And don’t forget to try a piece
of cheesecake made with Lindeman’s Framboise (Raspberry) Lambic beer for
desert. If you need to buy a gift for that beer lover in your life, both Sharp
Edge establishments offer gift packs and baskets, gift cards and certificates.
For Belgian beer, et al. in Pittsburgh, you can’t get any better than the Sharp
Edge Beer Emporium and Creekhouse.
This survey of fine Pittsburgh brewing and beer serving
establishments has only scratched the surface. For there are still numerous
other hot beer spots in and around the city to try.
Among the microbreweries, the national chains Rock
Bottom Brewery and John Harvard’s Brew House are located at the newly developed
Waterfront shopping complex of Homestead and along Route 22 in Monroeville, PA
respectively. Each offers their own tasty variety of brewing styles with
abundant food menus and cozy fun atmosphere.
Bado’s Ale House in Mt. Lebanon was once a neighborhood
pizza place and delicatessen. In the last couple of years, Bado’s has done
away with the deli, and has since become a first class tavern with a nice
selection of imports and micros. Oh yeah, the pizza is still good too!
Smokin Joe’s on the South Side is a hot spot for the
young college crowd, with very little to offer in terms of food, but more than
makes up for that with a massive selection of bottled and draft imports. I
especially like the upstairs bar, which is reminiscent of a mini German
Hofbrau.
The brand new Pittsburgh Bottle Shop is owned by a
former brewer from the Pittsburgh Brewing Company. The Bottle Shop is located
off of Interstate 79 near Heidelberg, PA. They have an amazing selection of
imports, and believe it or not, actually have brewing classes on Saturday
mornings!
The Bloomfield Bridge Tavern is a neighborhood watering
hole that has live entertainment and sells the usual standards, plus an
assortment of beers from Eastern Europe such as Zywiec and Perla. The
Bloomfield Bridge Tavern is located further up Liberty Avenue from the Church
Brew Works, and sits at the foot of the Bloomfield Bridge in Pittsburgh’s
Little Italy section.
D’s Six Pax & Dogs closes out our Pittsburgh beer
tour. Located in Regent Square near the Parkway East, D’s is more like a
sandwich shop and obscure beer distributor rolled in to one tiny place. I
highly recommend having their all beef dog with a Tetley’s English Ale. Now
that’s good eating.
Alas, I would be remiss if I did not wrap up this beer
tour of Pittsburgh without paying respects to the late Valhalla and Foundry Ale
Works brewpubs. Both of these Strip District establishments fell victim to
closure due to finances, and were incredible places to go for some good food
and drink. Valhalla had a nordic-viking theme to it, with live jazz featured
every weekend. I really miss their Eric the Red lager. The Foundry was more
rustic, with a blue-collar atmosphere. These brewpubs will be sorely missed by
a lot of beer drinking faithful in the Pittsburgh area.
When you come to Pittsburgh, there is no loss for fun
things to do, from catching a baseball game at the best ballpark in America, to
riding the inclines, to visiting the Carnegie Museums, to riverboat cruising on
the Gateway Clipper, to seeing a show at the Downtown Cultural District.
If you come to Pittsburgh to drink beer of any style,
you can be sure to find what you are looking for at these establishments in and
around the steel city. To all of you traveling beer drinkers coming to the
Burgh, bring a hearty thirst. Pittsburgh is not just about Iron City and steel
mills anymore!
www.pennbrew.com
www.churchbrew.com
www.fatheads.com
www.piperspub.com
www.sharpedgebeer.com
www.rockbottom.com
www.johnharvards.com
www.badospizzagrill.com
19-JULY-2004
